eaglebtc
911
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4
Tools required for this job: triple square M4 and M8 bits, 10mm socket, and a beam type torque wrench
A set of triple squares I picked up from my local hardware store
The new door lock actuator
Here's the whole procedure from the Bentley Manual. Glass must be suspended with strong tape in order to remove the carrier assembly.
Hang on, how much torque?? (the metric unit is correct; they wrote ft-lb instead of in-lb.
First step to get the door lock cylinder out
Checking that the M8 bit fits.
remove the handle by unclipping the linkage cable from the actuator inside the door
Handle removed
Photo of the switches for the door lock (need to order another one, as this is beginning to wear out)
Window switches
Need to remove the plugs covering the bolts for the windows
Window carrier bolt. Loosen, then lift the window...
Window taped up in place. Nashua 557 duct tape FTW.
hood release lever out
Oops, broke the clip for the hood release lever. They don't sell this individually so I have to source one from a set.
Now I have to undo the window and door connectors
loosening the cover with body trim tools
loosen the boot
in context with the door
start pulling it out through the body
loosen the holder for the wiring guide
pry that out
keep pulling...
Now tape it all up to the carrier assembly
Now undo the carrier bolts. These must be removed in a specific de-torquing sequence (modified star pattern).
this black sealant crap is probably butyl tape; I'll have to clean it all off and reapply a new bead of it.
Door carrier assembly completely out. I'm going to install some sound dampening material in here later.
Yes, that's factory VW styrofoam...
Carrier assembly on the ground
Old door lock actuator
New one
scraping off the old sealant. I sprayed a tiny bit of WD-40 on it, and it melted clean off. Cleanup afterward was a cinch.
shaneshort
Great work and nice tutorial! I think I found the VW part # AKL-450-005-05 for that sticky icky. Comes in 5m sections. Definitely Butyl tape.
eaglebtc
Nice! Thanks, Shane!
UnitConversionBot
10mm ≈ 390 thousandths of an inch
eaglebtc
good bot
DeathtrapGarage
Good luck. Those VWs are always a bit more complicated than they should be. Watch that 10mm. They tend to walk away.
eaglebtc
I still have all my Sears Craftsman 10mm sockets in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive. Weirdly I've lost the 9mm socket...
DanielAsparagus
Love it. Peak content. Post perfection.
eaglebtc
BackPackJohniee
Shoot. Now I'm feeling all guilty about not changing out my interior door latch after all this time.
Neednoggle
Just go ahead and do it, that's a few minutes job.
eaglebtc
Is that a mk2 Golf?
BackPackJohniee
Nope. 91 Honda Civic Wagon RT4WD. Finially got the part about a month ago, but just haven’t had the time to work on it.
SomethingCatchyLater
I remember replacing one many years ago (car couldn't tell if door was open or closed). Went through all the trouble only for the dealer replacement to die months later. And I was always more of a Hanyes manual person
eaglebtc
Haynes manuals are like 300-400 pages. The Bentley Publishers manuals are well over a thousand pages and include exhaustive guides and detailed drawings. They specialize in manuals for BMWs and VAG group cars (VW, Audi, Porsche). I have several.
SomethingCatchyLater
Yeah, that was kinda a highbrow joke. Those Haynes manuals sucked. It was enough to get you started but left you stranded when you needed help. Gave me the torque specs and that was about all that was worthwhile
CanIGetSomeExtraSalt
I just use the general German torque spec
eaglebtc
the general German?
psugab
Güd enūf
eaglebtc
Ahem... I think the official torque spec for German cars is gutentight!
GreaseMonkeyOfLove
*pulls out 1/2 inch torque wrench* *snaps every bolt* “F—king German cars are total garbage!”
eaglebtc
🤣🤣🤣 Yeah, I'll bet at least one person has made that mistake by using too many ugga-duggas. 71 ft-lbs is for wheels, not windows!
DWandRFaremyspiritbeings
Confusing inch-pounds for ft-pounds always leads to an ooopsies.
SomethingCatchyLater
laughs in *axle bolt*
OldBikerDude
I really hate those types of torque wrenches
eaglebtc
The beam-type? Well, I bought it for another job I have to do on the car (valve body service and shift solenoid replacement), and all the torque for the door work is in inch-pounds (except for the M8 bolts), so I figured why not use it?
OldBikerDude
They get out of call too easy. I just have differing sizes of the click type
eaglebtc
I have two other click types, and have had them both for ~20 years with occasional use. One has a range of 25-250 in-lbs (2-24 ft-lbs) and the larger one ranges from 10-150 ft-lbs.
RetrogradeLlama
I hate working inside doors.
eaglebtc
It's tedious but not too difficult so far. What is the black sticky crap anyway? Butyl tape? Silicone RTV? Something else?
Neednoggle
Yeah, butyl. Awful shit to work with, but it does work well.
RetrogradeLlama
It's some sort of rubber product. I don't know what it actually is. But it stays pliable and sticky for decades.
I needed a little back in the 80's. Went to the auto parts store. Back then they had knowledgeable people working). I told the guy what I needed, and he showed me to a package in the body-work supplies section. Bought a "roll" of it. Used a little. Still have the rest. Still just as sticky and fresh as when I bought it in the 80's.
eaglebtc
Thanks. I just bought two (2) 15-foot rolls with a 1/4" round bead. Each door carrier assembly needs about 10-12 feet.
eaglebtc
So I've seen "butyl tape" sold on a roll like that. It comes in varying widths, and the smallest looks like a black licorice roll as thin as a pencil. Instructions indicate to apply and just trim off the excess. Does this sound like butyl tape to you?
RetrogradeLlama
I just googled. Looks like the same stuff. I think that what I used to hold the plastic liner on a door was 1/4".
eaglebtc
Thanks. I just bought two 15-foot rolls of 1/4" round bead. Each door carrier needs about 10-12 feet of the stuff.